Discover the story of País wine in Chile, from the varietal’s colonial origins and decline to its modern revival. Learn what makes this light red wine unique.

Wine—and the grapes to make it—arrived in Chile from Spain as part of their colonization efforts. Colonists needed it to evangelize, of course, but they also wanted it to… well, to get drunk. As soon as they figured out that the land was fertile, they envisioned potential profits. The Conquistadores brought over one of the grapes, Listán Prieto[i]. It had a thin black skin, was vigorous and resilient, and grew well wherever they planted it: from Mexico and California in the north, to Perú and Argentina in the south. It also made it to Chile, where, today, we know it as País.

History Recap

Colonial wines were not sophisticated. They did the job, if you catch my meaning, but winemakers made them with limited expertise. Wines back then lacked flavor, which is not the grape’s fault, of course. Still, you can’t blame the winemakers of the early republic for moving to French grapes when they attained independence from Spain[ii]. Chile—and most wine-producing newly independent countries in the Americas—turned to France for help to revitalize their viticulture. The consultants came with technology, advice, and vines. Serious vintners abandoned humble grapes like País to favor the ones from Bordeaux and Burgundy[iii].

For 300 years, winemakers produced mostly poor wines[iv] using Spanish grapes like Listán Prieto, and then, after gaining our independence, French vines landed, and they’ve dominated the wine landscape (winescape?) for the last 200 years. That is no exaggeration, the most planted grapes in Chile are all French, with Cabernet Sauvignon topping the list.

But I’m not writing this to talk about an extinct grape variety! We mostly forgot about País, but the varietal wasn’t lost.

País Grape: Popular Wine

Earlier I mentioned that serious winemakers replaced their País plantations, but I wrote that with tongue in cheek. No disrespect to them for the switcheroo, and no disrespect to those who stuck by it, either. Plenty of growers kept planting País and continued to make wine with it, even if of lower-end quality: rustic, low in alcohol, and often a little sweet. Nothing to write home about, but of great cultural significance. We call that wine pipeño.

Winemakers used País to make cheap wine, and yes, that means in price, but also in quality. Now, don’t get me wrong, it was not foul-tasting wine, just not complex. People drank this wine year-round, but more so during patriotic celebrations and rural festivities, especially—but not exclusively—in the south of Chile.

Refined tables in Chile featured wines made with French grapes, whereas common folk were drinking mostly beer, but they also occasionally uncorked simpler wines made with País.

And that was the status quo for a century and a half. Then, with the new millennia, things changed.

The Resurgence of País

It started as an attempt to regain some cultural identity. Winemakers began experimenting with País to make fine wines. This generated some buzz, and wine consumers, especially younger generations, avid for preservation and identity, welcomed it. Restaurants embraced the trend by featuring a bottle of País or two in their wine lists. Suddenly talking about the varietal became chic.

And why not? It’s a heck of a story! We’re talking about an O.G. grape that people first planted in Chile in the 1540s! It survived the French “invasion” by disguising itself as a simple wine more akin to parish wine than to whatever you’re used to serving at your table. It provided wine for the working class and had a dubious reputation. Ah, but winemakers slowly brought it over to the spotlight, pushing the envelope with the belief that good wines could be made with País.

They were right. Kudos all around.

First, only a few bold innovators used País, making garage wines with limited distribution. Today, however, most big wineries carry País, though sometimes blended with other grapes, in their catalogues. It is, therefore, easier to find in retail. Today it’s regaining some of the lost territory in vineyards, and people are treating it with more respect.

What Kind of Wine is País?

It’s light red in color; reminding me of pale clay bricks. On the nose you’ll find floral aromas and some red berries. I typically smell strawberries, but other red fruits, cherries in particular, are also common. It’s not a complex wine. It will feel light in your mouth, and it will not have a long finish[v].

This is the kind of red you’ll want around in the summer. Not only it’s refreshing when a little chilled, it also pairs well with some grilled foods, like chicken and corn on the cob. It also works surprisingly well with fries[vi], and therefore most chips[vii]. Can this be your ultimate snacking wine?

True to its humble beginnings, it’s a fun wine, perfect for celebrations. The one you take to a seafood boil: Its attitude will match your shorts and flip flops!

It’s called Mission in Mexico and California, and Criolla in Perú and Argentina, where winemakers are also working to popularize it. Spain also still has its Listán Prieto, which grows in the Canary Islands. Not too long ago I had a glass of Canarian Listán Prieto in a wine bar in Madrid. It tasted, unsurprisingly, very good. This grape might just be getting ready to take the wine world by storm. Have you tried País before? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below!

The Last Drop

I remember the first time I tried País. It was in a hip restaurant and the wine list had many interesting choices, jumping between natural wines and more traditional bottles. They had a couple País wines, so I got one to see what the hype was all about. And at the time, my conclusion was that that’s all it was: hype.

As I mentioned above, I believe that at first winemakers took a shot in the dark attempt to grasp some nearly lost cultural identity. Those first winemakers were gutsy, but the results were unbalanced and didn’t live up to expectations.

So, my first País experience was not great, but more and more I saw the growing enthusiasm for this wine, and I decided not to give up on it. And oh, boy, am I glad I didn’t! I’ve since found some producers making excellent País.

It’s exciting because it still has a lot of potential. I’m confident that in a few years, producers will make great País wines available. The grape still has obstacles to overcome, though. Some dismiss it for its humble origins, and some dislike it because it’s not “serious enough”. You can’t please everybody, but I think País will be just fine despite the haters.

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Footnotes

[i] Back then, it’s likely that the grape was not Listán Prieto as we know it today, but an ancestor. Either way, forgive me for calling it that—or País, even though that name came later—for the rest of the article.

[ii] French varietals were introduced in the mid 19^th century. I’ve written a more detailed article on the history of wine in Chile. Feel free to check it out!

[iii] And other French wine regions, of course. For instance, Syrah is also popular in Chile.

[iv] Colonial winemakers made young wines, which were not aged in oak (often, they were not aged in wood at all) and spoiled quickly. To improve them, they added herbs and spices to the wine. Can you imagine adding celery and oregano to your wine to make it taste better?

[v] I’m being overly general. Though most are still easy-drinking wines, winemakers are making some exceptional ones with País.

[vi] Chips, if you’re of the British persuasion.

[vii] Crisps, if you’re of the British persuasion.

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Cover image: Some País wines in my collection. Photo by me.